In Dark Star Safari Paul Theroux travels the length of Africa from Cairo to Cape Town and records his observations and feelings about the trip. He lived on the continent many years ago as a young teacher and some of the book is about comparing what he remembers with what he sees before him now. It’s an observational book about people rather than about the landscape and history of the area and it was written at about the turn of the century so obviously some political things have changed since then.
The author is a man who engages with those around him and tries not to behave as a tourist. He also ditches all his electronic devices before starting the journey so that he is out of touch with the outside world during the time when he travels. He journeys by bus, minibus, train and occasionally by taxi.
This is an engaging look at the differences on one continent – both political and cultural. The author is interested in how the local people live and how they have reused the infrastructure left to them from colonialism such as the buildings, the roads and the railways. He is not at all keen on the non-governmental organisations and charities which are present in most of the countries which he travels through and he sees the aid culture as outsiders getting rich at the expense of those they are supposed to help.
The author travels through countries including Egypt, Sudan, South Africa, Kenya and Malawi and crossing borders from one country to another becomes a problem on occasion. He also finds that people want to steal from him, con him and take bribes from him. On the other hand he observes communities of people, often with very little, living fulfilled, creative and happy lives. He has to accept that the work in which he was involved in the past is of no interest to modern Africans and that he has little to offer them now.
The author loves the continent but has few illusions about its problems. He records his observations with humour and this book is very readable. There is enough background in history and politics to help you understand context but he is clear about how these things affect real people living everyday lives. An entertaining and interesting read.
Anne Is Reading 